Wednesday, September 15, 2010
Monday, September 13, 2010
Mac Track #3 and Blowed up stuff
This weekend was quite a good time. IanT aka Dr. Doom is back in the colonies from Manchester. Since there was a race this weekend, I prompted him to dust off one of his many mopeds he had scattered to the wind when he left and come race. He did, and he earned 2nd place for himself. Not bad for his first time on the track. I'm constantly impressed by the speed that can be coaxed from 50cc of french power. It is unbelievable. To watch something with 39% more displacement get blasted by a high revving little french bike is mind blowing. Here are the two of us partying. I'm on top of Eric's house, Ian is looking at the ground, and it appears that travis' shadow is watching us. 
3rd place went to me on account of the tracking beating up Gorilla and Lady Gorilla, Travis spending too much time watching the super motos, Naz inability to make the race, Jessee's pipe falling off and that's about it. If Joe would have showed up, I would have beat him too. I couldn't lose, since I found a $20 in the parking lot on the morning of the race. I knew I would podium, although I was hoping from pure finesse and not the misfortune of my friends.
ALSO - I am an idiot and did a huge wheelie on my bike practice day, accidentally. Then I proceded to smash the front end, taco the wheel, rebound, eject the wheel, then land on the forks. Thanks to Nate from Portland who loaned me a front end and wheel for the race!
That being said, here is my Metra80 cylinder, now officially retired after some obvious sounds of detonation on the way to MM the other night.
3rd place went to me on account of the tracking beating up Gorilla and Lady Gorilla, Travis spending too much time watching the super motos, Naz inability to make the race, Jessee's pipe falling off and that's about it. If Joe would have showed up, I would have beat him too. I couldn't lose, since I found a $20 in the parking lot on the morning of the race. I knew I would podium, although I was hoping from pure finesse and not the misfortune of my friends. ALSO - I am an idiot and did a huge wheelie on my bike practice day, accidentally. Then I proceded to smash the front end, taco the wheel, rebound, eject the wheel, then land on the forks. Thanks to Nate from Portland who loaned me a front end and wheel for the race!
That being said, here is my Metra80 cylinder, now officially retired after some obvious sounds of detonation on the way to MM the other night.
Thursday, September 9, 2010
Tuesday, September 7, 2010
What to expect when you are expecting (a moped)
I wrote this e-mail to a friend once who thought he might be interested in a moped, and at the time I felt like getting ambitious, so I started to write a big long thing, and then never finished. I saw it the other day in my drafts box and realized that even unfinished, it's got some decent information in there, so I thought I would post it up since I haven't had anything to contribute recently. Check it out, it's long and you know this already, but you are reading this at work anyway.
What is a moped?
A moped is a unique combination of bicycle, motor and freedom. They are lightweight machines (70-110 lbs) powered by 50cc 2 stroke engines. They have automatic transmissions with centrifugal clutches, meaning no shifting or clutching. Most mopeds are one speed, some are automatic two speeds, and some have a continuously variable transmission (CVT). The top speed of most mopeds is 30mph, although depending on the state were originally sold, they may be limited to 20, or 25mph. Most mopeds were originally manufactured in Europe and imported into the US during the 1970's, with sales and imports declining until the late 80's, although a few new mopeds are still imported today.
How is it different than a scooter?
A moped has pedals that alone can power the machine, and thus, can be ridden like a bicycle. This is the easiest and most definitive way to differentiate a moped from scooter. Scooters usually range from 50cc to 150cc, and with either have a CVT or a manual shift transmission. Scooters have smaller wheels than mopeds, usually 10"-13" compared to a mopeds 16" or 17" wheels. Scooters are usually legally classified as different than mopeds and are subject to other regulations and laws that are not always applicable to mopeds (such as registration, licensing or insurance requirements) but this varies from state to state.
What do I need to legally operate a moped?
This varies from state to state, but usually all that is required is a valid drivers license. Some states, such as California, require a motorcycle endorsement. Other states, such as Indiana, don't require a license at all. California requires registration and plates for your moped, but the plates requires no yearly stickers and are lifetime. Washington calls for mopeds to be titled, and plated with yearly tabs, unless the moped is 30 years old and applies for a collectors plate. Michigan requires only a bill of sale to be registered and a small fee for a 3 year sticker to be placed on the bike. Indiana, on the other hand, requires no registration and plate to operate legally on the road. Check your states requirements for mopeds, and print out those laws when you attempt to register your moped. They are also handy to keep on the moped to show to police officers in the event of a traffic stop, as most police don't know or understand the laws regarding mopeds.
What is a moped great for?
A moped excels in high density areas of major cities, because it is small, cheap, efficient and fun. There are virtually no parking problems, as a moped can usually squeeze into about anywhere, and in some states, such as California, they are legally allowed to park on the sidewalk. At 30mph, they navigate surface streets at the speed of traffic, and can carry a rider and cargo easily around traffic. A moped is a great supplement to a primary vehicle, because they usually are payed for all at once (not another monthly payment) they are easy on gas (usually between 80-110mpg) and in many states don't require insurance and are cheap to register. This supplement moped can be used any time to take one person anywhere within a 10 mile radius of home in an urban environment at the same speed or even quicker than a car. Going to the grocery store? Toss on the baskets and bring home a few bags. Meeting up with a group of people at a sporting event or outing? A moped cuts through traffic and keeps you from having to drive everyone else!
What is a moped good for?
A moped is good as a primary vehicle in many situations, and many people in urban areas make mopeds their sole transportation by choice. I personally use a moped as my primary vehicle and ride it every day of the year. With proper rain gear, a moped can even be ridden comfortably in wet weather, although sunny days are certainly the best. In Seattle, it's very possible and not uncomfortable to ride year round. Riding during the winter in colder climates is still easily accomplished using warm clothing made for snow-mobiles, but the ice does present a hazard and should be considered carefully. A moped is good as a primary vehicle because it can do most of the things a car can do with less of the hassles, but there are some things a moped doesn't do well.
What is a moped not good for?
Mopeds are not made to transport more than one person. The few and far between mopeds that have a long seat and passenger pegs usually still have a weight limit of 250lbs, meaning it's over loaded with two passengers. Most mopeds are not good at climbing large hills, especially from a stop. Most mopeds are one speed, and don't have lots of torque, making most power at upper RPMs which they can never reach going up hill. The exception to this is a moped with a Variated (cvt) transmission. They have incredible low end which can usually climb most hills with little to no pedal assistance. I will outline which mopeds are variated later on. A moped is not good for people who just want to put gasoline in a vehicle and drive it. Mopeds are very simple, small machines, and the vibrations of the motor and the bumps along the road tend to knock things around and cause bolts to come lose. A moped is not usually a vehicle that can just be ridden with no maintainence. Since one of the main draws of the moped lifestyle is low cost, it can be prohibitively expensive to pay someone to maintain your moped. Most motorcycle shops won't work on them, or if they agree to, its on a no-recourse basis and they charge usually between $90-$120 per hour. A simple problem on a moped fixed by a motorcycle shop will usually cost as much as the moped did originally! A moped is not a hands off machine. The cheapest and most likely qualified person around to repair or maintain your moped is almost certainly you.
I think I want a moped, but how will I know how to maintain it?
Mopeds need maintence and repair, and since it's not practical or always possible to pay someone to fix it, that means you are the head mechanic in your moped fleet of one! Mopeds require very few tools, and most were originally equipped with a small tool kit, although they tend to get lost through the years. All you really need are a few basic tools.
I'm going to link to a very handy guide that will help you learn the logical process of solving moped mechanical issues. There are really only 3 things required for a moped to run. Fuel, Spark and Compression. So simply test to see if you have each of these three things. Find out which one you don't have, and you have an idea of what needs fixed. Make the missing element work, and your moped will run! Read this guide several times, it is very helpful.
http://www.mopedarmy.com/wiki/Fred%27s_Guide
So now you've got an idea if a moped is right for you, and you have a basic idea of what it will take to keep a moped running. The rest is wanting to ride a moped bad enough that you will stick with it.
What is a moped?
A moped is a unique combination of bicycle, motor and freedom. They are lightweight machines (70-110 lbs) powered by 50cc 2 stroke engines. They have automatic transmissions with centrifugal clutches, meaning no shifting or clutching. Most mopeds are one speed, some are automatic two speeds, and some have a continuously variable transmission (CVT). The top speed of most mopeds is 30mph, although depending on the state were originally sold, they may be limited to 20, or 25mph. Most mopeds were originally manufactured in Europe and imported into the US during the 1970's, with sales and imports declining until the late 80's, although a few new mopeds are still imported today.
How is it different than a scooter?
A moped has pedals that alone can power the machine, and thus, can be ridden like a bicycle. This is the easiest and most definitive way to differentiate a moped from scooter. Scooters usually range from 50cc to 150cc, and with either have a CVT or a manual shift transmission. Scooters have smaller wheels than mopeds, usually 10"-13" compared to a mopeds 16" or 17" wheels. Scooters are usually legally classified as different than mopeds and are subject to other regulations and laws that are not always applicable to mopeds (such as registration, licensing or insurance requirements) but this varies from state to state.
What do I need to legally operate a moped?
This varies from state to state, but usually all that is required is a valid drivers license. Some states, such as California, require a motorcycle endorsement. Other states, such as Indiana, don't require a license at all. California requires registration and plates for your moped, but the plates requires no yearly stickers and are lifetime. Washington calls for mopeds to be titled, and plated with yearly tabs, unless the moped is 30 years old and applies for a collectors plate. Michigan requires only a bill of sale to be registered and a small fee for a 3 year sticker to be placed on the bike. Indiana, on the other hand, requires no registration and plate to operate legally on the road. Check your states requirements for mopeds, and print out those laws when you attempt to register your moped. They are also handy to keep on the moped to show to police officers in the event of a traffic stop, as most police don't know or understand the laws regarding mopeds.
What is a moped great for?
A moped excels in high density areas of major cities, because it is small, cheap, efficient and fun. There are virtually no parking problems, as a moped can usually squeeze into about anywhere, and in some states, such as California, they are legally allowed to park on the sidewalk. At 30mph, they navigate surface streets at the speed of traffic, and can carry a rider and cargo easily around traffic. A moped is a great supplement to a primary vehicle, because they usually are payed for all at once (not another monthly payment) they are easy on gas (usually between 80-110mpg) and in many states don't require insurance and are cheap to register. This supplement moped can be used any time to take one person anywhere within a 10 mile radius of home in an urban environment at the same speed or even quicker than a car. Going to the grocery store? Toss on the baskets and bring home a few bags. Meeting up with a group of people at a sporting event or outing? A moped cuts through traffic and keeps you from having to drive everyone else!
What is a moped good for?
A moped is good as a primary vehicle in many situations, and many people in urban areas make mopeds their sole transportation by choice. I personally use a moped as my primary vehicle and ride it every day of the year. With proper rain gear, a moped can even be ridden comfortably in wet weather, although sunny days are certainly the best. In Seattle, it's very possible and not uncomfortable to ride year round. Riding during the winter in colder climates is still easily accomplished using warm clothing made for snow-mobiles, but the ice does present a hazard and should be considered carefully. A moped is good as a primary vehicle because it can do most of the things a car can do with less of the hassles, but there are some things a moped doesn't do well.
What is a moped not good for?
Mopeds are not made to transport more than one person. The few and far between mopeds that have a long seat and passenger pegs usually still have a weight limit of 250lbs, meaning it's over loaded with two passengers. Most mopeds are not good at climbing large hills, especially from a stop. Most mopeds are one speed, and don't have lots of torque, making most power at upper RPMs which they can never reach going up hill. The exception to this is a moped with a Variated (cvt) transmission. They have incredible low end which can usually climb most hills with little to no pedal assistance. I will outline which mopeds are variated later on. A moped is not good for people who just want to put gasoline in a vehicle and drive it. Mopeds are very simple, small machines, and the vibrations of the motor and the bumps along the road tend to knock things around and cause bolts to come lose. A moped is not usually a vehicle that can just be ridden with no maintainence. Since one of the main draws of the moped lifestyle is low cost, it can be prohibitively expensive to pay someone to maintain your moped. Most motorcycle shops won't work on them, or if they agree to, its on a no-recourse basis and they charge usually between $90-$120 per hour. A simple problem on a moped fixed by a motorcycle shop will usually cost as much as the moped did originally! A moped is not a hands off machine. The cheapest and most likely qualified person around to repair or maintain your moped is almost certainly you.
I think I want a moped, but how will I know how to maintain it?
Mopeds need maintence and repair, and since it's not practical or always possible to pay someone to fix it, that means you are the head mechanic in your moped fleet of one! Mopeds require very few tools, and most were originally equipped with a small tool kit, although they tend to get lost through the years. All you really need are a few basic tools.
- Spark plug socket
- Adjustable Wrench
- Flat head and Philips screwdrivers
- 8,10,11,13,15mm box end wrenches
- 5mm Allen key (or a whole metric set)
- 1/4" drive Metric socket set with ratchet.
- Vice-grip brand adjustable locking pliers, needle nose
- Ignition points file
- Piston stop (used for locking the piston in place to tighten and loosen certain engine nuts)
- Flywheel puller (for your specific moped brand)
- Feeler gauge
- WD40 or another multi-purpose lubricant
- Electrical tape
- Zip ties or cable ties
- Steel wool
- Sand paper
I'm going to link to a very handy guide that will help you learn the logical process of solving moped mechanical issues. There are really only 3 things required for a moped to run. Fuel, Spark and Compression. So simply test to see if you have each of these three things. Find out which one you don't have, and you have an idea of what needs fixed. Make the missing element work, and your moped will run! Read this guide several times, it is very helpful.
http://www.mopedarmy.com/wiki/
So now you've got an idea if a moped is right for you, and you have a basic idea of what it will take to keep a moped running. The rest is wanting to ride a moped bad enough that you will stick with it.
Tuesday, August 31, 2010
Hero Puch 65cc
My Hero Puch has arrived, and it's got the neatest box of any cylinder I've ever bought. THE OCTAGON. 
Well packed and secure, it was also coated with oil all over.
Interestingly enough, it's wrapped in a sweet plastic, encouraging you to insist on genuine Hero quality parts. 
This cylinder shot shows that the casting is a bit goofy.
The cylinder studs are square to each other, but a bit wonky on the orientation to the ports. I'd say the whole cylinder is is probably 6 degrees off. Curious if it will have any trouble bolting up to my pipe.
The ports looks pretty good on the inside though, not too rough. I do like the boost port up top. Hard to imagine that Metra80 makes so much power without the port.
Well packed and secure, it was also coated with oil all over.
Interestingly enough, it's wrapped in a sweet plastic, encouraging you to insist on genuine Hero quality parts. 
This cylinder shot shows that the casting is a bit goofy.
The cylinder studs are square to each other, but a bit wonky on the orientation to the ports. I'd say the whole cylinder is is probably 6 degrees off. Curious if it will have any trouble bolting up to my pipe. The ports looks pretty good on the inside though, not too rough. I do like the boost port up top. Hard to imagine that Metra80 makes so much power without the port.
Thursday, August 26, 2010
Another oddity of things being blown up
Alternate title is
HOW TO FIX YOUR MOPED IN ONE EASY STEP:
To fix a broken moped, simply take off the broken part, and repair it or replace it, put it back on, and then you have a working moped.
Wednesday, August 25, 2010
Tomos and the Mystery Hole
Riding the Tomos the other day, I happened to look down at a stop light and saw a giant puddle of oil spreading out over the pavement. There was so much I thought surely it is from the Exxon Valdeez. Luckily I broke down close to Matt Smudge's work place, so I put my moped into his truck and he came outside and gave me a ride home. What caused the draining of transmission fluid? I thought the drain plug might have rattled loose. Nope, there was a hole in the bottom of the case. Suspiciously M6 size
The odd thing was there was also this nice little core of metal still sitting in the hole as the oil gushed out around it. It also was strange that it hadn't rattled lose and wasn't completely ejected by the whatever mystery force created it. 
Opening up the transmission to see what decided to make the extra drain hole, I found this.
It's always nice when the cause problem is looking you right in the face. One of the cap screws that holds the case halves together worked its way out and dropped into the transmission, where it hooked onto one of the gears, and smashed into the case, bending the bolt and making the hole. The core of the hole fits very nicely against the cap screw, its kind of funny. So after a new case bolt with some loc-tite, I drilled the hole out, tapped it M6, and put in a short bolt with a bonded washer. I had never heard of these before, Naz turned me on to them. It's a snug fitting washer with some type of crush sealing rubber surface. I put that inside the case and turned a nut down on it, and no leaks of any kind. The Tomos lives again!
The odd thing was there was also this nice little core of metal still sitting in the hole as the oil gushed out around it. It also was strange that it hadn't rattled lose and wasn't completely ejected by the whatever mystery force created it. 
Opening up the transmission to see what decided to make the extra drain hole, I found this. 
It's always nice when the cause problem is looking you right in the face. One of the cap screws that holds the case halves together worked its way out and dropped into the transmission, where it hooked onto one of the gears, and smashed into the case, bending the bolt and making the hole. The core of the hole fits very nicely against the cap screw, its kind of funny. So after a new case bolt with some loc-tite, I drilled the hole out, tapped it M6, and put in a short bolt with a bonded washer. I had never heard of these before, Naz turned me on to them. It's a snug fitting washer with some type of crush sealing rubber surface. I put that inside the case and turned a nut down on it, and no leaks of any kind. The Tomos lives again!
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